Only in New York, Part II

More places, and of course, more food... :o)

The High Line, Chelsea to the Meatpacking District
www.thehighline.org

Although there are plenty of ways to view New York City from above, this one involves no revolving restaurant or King Kong references. What there is, is an architecturally designed walking path, that allows you to experience the bustle of the city, and the wild of nature hand in hand. Once a freight train line in the 1930's, the track was transformed into a public park through the vision of a few locals living in the area, protecting it from demolition.

Artists and galleries are also involved in the project, and have contributed installations that are strewn throughout the path. The Highline is an interactive experience and you can't walk it without taking pause. A particularly good place to do this is a tiered seating area reminiscent of a theatre space, with the stage being a giant glass window. The performance? New York City traffic whizzing by 30 feet below.

The best thing about the Highline is that it's ever-changing just like nature, just like cities. Each visit is an experience anew.

Cafe Habana, 17 Prince Street, Nolita
www.cafehabana.com

Cafe Habana is situated in the area known as North of Little Italy, a kind of a mini-SoHo, but more eclectic, less generic, and slightly more down to earth. And what could be more down to earth than corn on a stick. At this popular Mexican-Cuban cafe, they take this humble snack and take it up a notch. No butter drizzle here. It's corn on a cob that is char-grilled, and then smeared in a combination of cotija cheese, fresh lime, and chili powder. It may sound awful, but it's awfully good, and their signature dish. There is also a Habana Outpost in Brooklyn with a twist. The restaurant is almost entirely eco-friendly. It's run mainly on solar power, uses rainwater toilets, and diners can mix their own margaritas using bike-powered blenders. I say yay! to good corn and good conscience.

Cafe Sabarsky, 1048 Fifth Avenue, Upper East Side
www.cafesabarsky.com

Nestled inside the Neue Galerie (featuring Austrian and German works), is the very charming Cafe Sabarsky. Feeling very old world, and very European with high ceilings, dark wood walls and marble tables, this Viennese cafe was one of our dining highlights. After ducking into the grand foyer of the gallery, and soaking wet after a surprise torrential rainstorm, we were hoping to seat ourselves and get comfy. Not possible at Cafe Sabarsky. This place is popular and lineups are a given. But it was all well worth it once seated. The menu is expansive and it was a challenge to decide what to have as everything looked amazing. I liked that the items were listed in Austrian and English, although I did not attempt to say, "I'll have the Kleines Wiener Schnitzel mit Kartoffel-Gurkensalat & Preiselbeeren" when I ordered my dish. But my Small Wiener Schnitzel with Potato-Cucumber Salad & Lingonberries was the right choice. The pickly-flavoured potato salad was quite
incredible and was the perfect pairing for the subtly spiced schnitzel. My guy had the Baked Pasta with Bavarian Ham, Cream & Emmentaler which was rich, savoury and delicious. And the desert, though simple to the eye, was mouthwatering to the palate. All I can say is, if you are there, please have the Quark Cheese Strudel with Vanilla Sauce.

Vanessa's Dumpling House, 118A Eldridge Street,

Lower East Side
www.vanessasdumplinghouse.com

There is nothing glamourous about Vanessa's Dumpling House, and therein lies its charm. It is a no-nonsense, completely unpretentious place where you line up, order, try to find a place to sit in the very narrow seating area across from the long service counter, get your order and chow down. It is small and a little run down, but it's fun. It's so cool to watch the middle-aged Chinese ladies behind the counter boiling and frying dumplings, scooping soup, and slapping together sandwiches in perfect choreography, managing never to bump into each other. And the food! Their deliciously greasy dumplings are top notch and sold at an incredulous price. Four tasty Cabbage & Pork Fried Dumplings or Chive & Pork Fried Dumplings set you back a dollar. A dollar! My guy and I indulged ourselves for just over six dollars and that included eight dumplings, a delicious Sour & Spicy Cucumber Salad, a Sesame Pancake, a hot Horlicks (so good) and a tea. I only wished we had discovered this place earlier in our trip. On our next voyage there, I will most certainly have their Sesame Pancake Sandwiches which come stuffed with a variety of fillings, including the one I await to try: Peking Duck. And I will certainly be back at Vanessa's at the very beginning of our trip, so we can return again and again and again.

Big Onion's Walking Tour's
Original Multi-Ethnic Eating Tour, Lower East Side
www.bigonion.com

The Lower East Side neighbourhood was, and still is, home to New York's many immigrant families. As this has been the starting point for many a newcomer, it's full of fascinating history. The inhabitants of each area has changed dramatically throughout the years, as families established themselves and moved further north or to the boroughs. And that's what made this tour super interesting, to hear of the many incarnations a single building or block had taken. Throughout the walk we learned about hardships endured, stories of corrupt politicians, racist policies, turf clashes, gang mayhem and survival. Particularly notable stops were the infamous Five Points from Gangs of New York lore, the Bloody Angle in Chinatown, a blind corner where rival gangs would ambush each other, and the evolution of tenement housing. We walked, listened, learned, and yes, ate too. The tour was punctuated by stops at many of the local food shops and eateries. Along the way we ate Dominican fried plantain, Kosher pickles, Jewish halvah, Chinese rose petal candies, and Italian bocconcini,

salami, and cannoli. I'm so glad we took this tour. Not only was my stomach happy, I felt like I gotten to know this city that I love, a whole lot better. Yes NYC, I ♥ you even more.

Big Onion offers walking tours aplenty throughout Manhattan and the Boroughs. The guides are specialists in the fields of architecture, urban development, cultural history, sociology, and labour issues. They have also won several awards for their work.

Only in New York

Coffee at the Empire Diner, NYC

In New York, concrete jungle where dreams are made of
There's nothing you can’t do, now you're in New York
These streets will make you feel brand new
Big lights will inspire you, let's hear it for New York.
~Jay-Z and Alicia Keys

Yes, let's hear it for New York- this city so rich in culture, history, incredible art, music and architecture, and crazy-good food. New York is a one of a kind city, perfect in its mix of the gritty and the pretty, and home to many things one of a kind. During my recent trip there I discovered some unique and impressive spots, specialty shops and eateries. Here are a few of the standouts.

Empire Diner, 210 10th Avenue, Chelsea
www.empire-diner.com
Housed in a chrome-lined converted train car, this 24 hour eatery makes for a retro-sleek and cozy dining experience. Upon our very early morning arrival into New York after an overnight flight, this low-key, yet popular diner made for the perfect hangout. Hearty traditional breakfasts are accompanied by taters that are a cross between home fries and potato chips, and the Irish oatmeal with walnuts, raisins and bananas on the side was the perfect comfort food for a tired soul. New York still has a fair share of the old school diners, and this one has that same nostalgic feel. And dining in a train car restaurant is pretty damn cool and something you just can't do in Vancouver, unless you count the McDonald's caboose...

American Museum of Natural History,
Central Park West at 79th St, Upper West Side
www.amnh.org
For nature and culture enthusiasts, and for those who just love spending hours looking at really cool stuff, this is the place to go. The animal dioramas are fascinating and the creatures both familiar and strange, are sights to behold. Each scene is creatively composed and often dynamic, with beautifully painted backdrops and detailed recreations of natural habitats. Also awesome is The Hall of Biodiversity which holds a huge variety of species, from gigantic to microscopic, hanging salon-style on a translucent wall. What I love about this museum is that it's a view into the world around us that we rarely see, set up in an engaging and artistic way. If you do visit however, you may wish to avoid the toad that gives birth out of its back. It will haunt you.

Congee Village, 100 Allen Street, 
Lower East Side 
www.congeevillagerestaurants.com
Being the congee lover that I am, it was imperative that I seek out a congee house in New York. I needed to know - would it be the same? different? better? And lucky for me, I had the fortune to discover that it can be better at Congee Village. Apart from my mother's congee, I can honestly say that this is the best congee I've ever had, and it actually tasted pretty damn close to that of my mother's. I ordered a pork liver and century egg version, and when it came out, it was still boiling hot and looked like it was served in the vessel it was prepared in - a rustic clay pot, reminiscent of something you'd see in a Chinese grandmother's kitchen. And even though it was plunked on the table by the server in haste, it tasted as though it had been lovingly cooked for hours. Unlike the sheet white colour of congee found here, this was rich brown, full of flavour (no condiments required), and accented only by a perfectly puffy Chinese doughnut. Although the restaurant is quite huge, the front room is intimate with decor that is total tiki disguised as a bamboo forest. Replete with overhanging leaves and tree trunk serving station, the kitsch factor only added more flavour to the already satisfying experience. And it's not only about their famed rice porridge, Congee Village has a full menu of Chinese food ranging from your average fare to more unususual delicacies such as baked fish intestine, duck's blood, and an adventurous array of frog dishes. There is definitely something to appeal to everyone here, and it has received many kudos from local critics. It's worth a visit, even if only to experience a Chinese version of a tiki lounge.

More New York to come...

Pho-nomenal

Pho at Song Huong Vietnamese Beef Noodle Restaurant

Vancouver is home to an abundance of Vietnamese restaurants, and for this, we are truly lucky. As maybe apparent, I am a true fan of Vietnamese cuisine, but I also love the ambiance and aesthetic that many of the restaurants have: the simple furnishings and decor, the plastic fruit hanging from a ceiling trellis, and often times a television in the corner playing a regional variety show. The feeling is like that of a getaway, as well as a familiar home away from home. When you walk into Song Huong Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup Restaurant, this is what you get, but the main attraction is the phenomenal pho.

Once welcomed by the bulgy-eyed goldfish swimming in their tank, you enter into the large, lounge-like main dining area. You can get comfortable in one of the white rattan seats and hang out there with the large-screen t.v. and dangling fruit, or head to the second seating area which is slightly smaller and more minimal in decor. Booths line both sides of the room, and this seems to be where the majority of customers congregate. Perhaps this is where the no-nonsense diners want to be, not here to lounge, but to eat. I guess ambiance and aesthetics have a place, but when it comes right down to it, it really is all about the food.

And how do you know a good pho? It is a matter of taste, but general opinion is a good indicator as well. After I was introduced to this place by a friend, I started bringing others to the restaurant, and friends and family members have declared it's goodness. My Vietnamese students also raved about it excitedly when I mentioned that it was a particular favourite. And it really is. The spices are perfect and the broth is rich and flavourful - it tastes of a carefully concocted brew. The cuts of meat, basil and bean sprout garnishes are also very fresh, and the beef balls have the perfect bounce. Their menu has many other traditional dishes, but it also includes specialties that other Vietnamese restaurants don't serve, like homemade beef sausages that are wonderfully spiced and perfectly grilled, and build-it-yourself specialty salad rolls. There is also a plentiful list of icy drinks to accompany your dish, including sour plum soda and tangy-sweet limonade.

It can get busy at dinnertime, but I've never had to wait. At these times, service can be harried but it is always cordial. And the price cannot be beat. A hearty bowl of pho and a drink will cost you around $10 before tax and tip. They are also fully licensed in case you do plan to lounge around.

Song Huong Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup Restaurant is located at 1613 Nanaimo Street (between Graveley Street and 1st Avenue). Their number is (604) 568-1196.

Meals are Mighty at Aphrodite

Brie, Blueberry and Buffalo Sausage Frittata on the top, and Turkey Pot Pie on the bottom.

The first time I heard of Aphrodite Cafe and Pie Shop was from the owner, Allan Christian, who was promoting his pies at at an organic market on the Drive. I tried a sample and was won over not only by the delectable taste of the pie, but by his use of natural ingredients and his commitment to using local and organic products. He was such a kind and interesting man to talk to as well, and so obviously passionate about his work. I vowed that I would make a trip to his cafe asap. Since my first visit there, I have been back several times and I've always left a happy and satisfied customer. Unfortunately for me, being located on 4th Avenue near Dunbar means it's a trip to get to, otherwise it'd most certainly be one of my regular haunts.

The country kitchen feel of the cafe makes for a comfy and cozy dining experience. Lunch and brunch is pretty casual. At dinnertime, the offerings are slightly more upscale, and noticeable in the plating and pricing. Lunch is not cheap either, but considering the quality of the food and the care put into each creation, the dishes are priced right. Much of the produce also travels from farm to plate the same day, and all seafood dishes carry the Ocean Wise symbol. Conscientious and tasty? These things make good in my books.

On a weekend afternoon visit (a few months ago now), it took a little while to get a seat, but it was worth the wait. (It's popular and lineups are common.) I was in the mood for something hearty and warming, so chose the Turkey Pot Pie made of local organic turkey and veggies. The filling, practically bursting out of its shell had a perfectly stewy consistency, and the crust was as a crust should be: flaky, tasty and light. It was no surprise it came from a pie shop and it hit the spot. (I did have to add salt, but I like salt.) My brunchtime pal, who had a Frittata with plump blueberries, brie and Oyama's organic buffalo sausage, was plenty pleased with his creamy rich, savoury, sweet, and mildly spiced dish. They also both came with a sizable and super fine salad that was no mere side, and you could tell how fresh it was from the colour and the flavour. It was also topped with the best dressing ever, Little Creek. (I call it Crack Dressing and always have a bottle in the fridge. It's totally tasty, great with any salad, and made in B.C.!) That they use this local, all-natural product is another indication that Aphrodite's knows good quality, good taste, and considers the good of this ol' planet of ours. Oh if it were only a little closer to home...

Brunch for two including homemade chai, coffee, tip and tax came to about $45.00.

For more information about Aphrodite's, go to: www.organiccafe.ca

Hello, Hi Genki

The pike mackerel was so long it didn't even fit in the picture!
Next to it, is the salmon and tuna sashimi/teriyaki chicken bento box with potato croquette.

Hi Genki Japanese Restaurant is actually the cafeteria of The New Sakura-so and Nikkei Home: Japanese seniors' residences located at the site of the National Nikkei Museum and Heritage Centre in South Burnaby. But quite unlike most cafeterias found in care facilities, this one is bustling with patrons, not depressing at all, and serves damn good food. Not fancy food, but what feels like home cooking. Because it's primary purpose is to serve the Japanese elderly, dishes seem more authentic, and less catered to a Western palate. There are dishes here that you won't find at other Japanese eateries, and ones that you will too, which is what makes it a worthwhile visit that will please all involved.

On this occasion which was yesterday's lunch, I decided on having a bento box, which is always a good choice when you really want a bit of everything, or just can't decide what you want. In it, was super fresh tuna and salmon sashimi and boneless chicken with a perfectly light, sweet and savoury teriyaki sauce. In other compartments, were a lightly fried potato croquette (with crispy breading on the outside and soft mashed taters on the inside), rice, and a wee bit of salad drizzled with seasoned rice vinegar and toasted sesame seeds. What could have been a heavy box was instead, hearty and light.

My lunch pal had grilled pike mackerel with salad, rice, and a dollop of grated daikon on the side. Do watch out for the bones, as there are plenty of them in this fish, but it's worth the work if you like a fishy fish, as mackerel certainly is one. It was thoroughly enjoyed as it's rare to find whole pike mackerel on a menu, and it was perfectly grilled with not just one fish, but two.

Every main also comes with miso soup, and you can taste the real bonito flakes, a sign of true quality. Two can dine happily with drinks for about $25. (Did I mention that it is amazingly good value?)

Info can be found at:
http://www.fujiya.ca/aboutFujiya/hiGenkiRestaurant.asp

It is run by Fujiya - the awesome Japanese market.

Calpeace. Actually calpis, a unique and refreshing Japanese yogurt drink.